Monday, Oct 14 Week 42

Making time-lapses

Some information about making time-lapses.

Camera accessories

Remote timer shutter can be useful if camera does not have a timer built into it.
The cheap ones with a wire usually works just fine.
Program the remote timer to the shutter speed plus delay time of saving the shots.
ND-filters or polarizers can be useful for longer exposures in ligting conditions.
Use a tripod (of course) for timelapses or something like a camera slider, gimbal or drone.

Camera settings

Consider disabling Long Exposure Noise Reduction for long exposure timelapses,
it might speed up the total delay between shots a lot.
Also disabling photo preview between shots can speed up the delay.
Maybe you could turn off the camera display while shooting, to save some power.

Shooting interval

Better to have too many frames than not enough.
Take into consideration the final frame rate, for example 30 or 60 FPS.
Below is a list of a few scenarios and some ideas for the interval.

Scenario Interval Description
Moving traffic 1 sec
Sunrise/sunset 5-10 sec Manually change shutter speed.
Tides (near) 3-4 sec
Tides (far) 8-10 sec
Startrail 20-30 sec Long exposures. Check delay times.

Star trail & time-lapse

In picture below is a typical star-trail.
We see trail around Polaris (North Star) because it aligns with the earth spin axis.

Shooting stars: ISO, focal length and exposure

In order to shoot stars at night a long shutter speed is required.
Using manual-mode for the camera lets us adjust the parameters for shutter and exposure.
Basically for this kind of shots a low ISO and f-stop is needed along with a long shutter speed.
Here is some tests and examples:

ISO Aperture Exposure Description
ISO-3200 F2.8 2.0 sec. Lots of noise, too much light
ISO-3200 F2.8 8.0 sec. Lots of noise, even more light
ISO-1000 F2.8 2.5 sec. Useful result, when adjust contrast etc.
ISO-1000 F2.8 20.0 sec. Too much light and noise (again)
ISO-200 F2.8 20.0 sec. Less light but still some noise

Night fog

Another problem when shooting at night is fog on the lens.
Camera and lens should be kept warm using a blanket or so,
and check if lens is still dry when camera is processing frames.

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